There is much to see in Turkey. My first visit I traveled to Istanbul and local friends guided me through this historic place. Istanbul is just the tip of the iceberg and Turkey really deserves a deep dive due to its ancient history and ruins, rich culture and food and stunning landscapes. It seems that UNESCO world heritage sites are around every corner. The more I visit, the more I am fascinated. After Istanbul I ventured inland to the Cappadocia, a land of volcanic peaks and caves, the Mediterranean coast, with it’s ancient ruins, mountains and coast, and Southern areas like Pamukkale and Hierapolis. It seems that UNESCO world heritage sites are around every corner. Here is a brief outline of Turkey and the places where the magic happened for me.
The Taxi, the Scam, and the Hammam
My friend and I were heading to a hamam from Topkapı Palace. We found a taxi, negotiated a price, jumped in, and paid. We were excited to be on our way. Then something strange happened: the taxi pulled over on a quiet road, the driver jumped out, and another man got in and started to drive. My friend and I exchanged a look of a combo of wtf and panic. When the driver finally pulled up to our destination he demanded payment again. We understood the scam immediately and jumped out of the taxi leaving that stress behind.
We then walked through the doors of Cağaloğlu Hamam and were transported into a peaceful, centuries-old tradition. Constructed in 1741, with high arched ceiling, sounds of water and peaceful muted lighting, not much has changed. A traditional hamam is where you get scrubbed, soaked and washed and come out feeling relaxed and invigorated.
First things first: take a walk
On my first visit to Turkey we had a very late flight from Marrakesh and landed in the old IST very large and busy International airport. As we waited for our bags I noticed the throngs of people from all over the world wearing traditional clothing, speaking different languages. Africans, Asians, Europeans, Middle Easterners – a true melting pot. Indeed, Istanbul is city of 15 million people with crowded and narrow streets winding through hills and neighborhoods. It is one of the largest cities in Europe and has both a European and Asian side divided by the Bospherus Strait.
Do not be intimidated. Take a walk! A great way to explore any place is to walk. A waterfront walk along the Bosphorus gives you views of the Asian and European sides of Istanbul along with parks and palaces, fisherman and locals. My morning walk began in the Ortaköy neighborhood, we walked passed bakeries, pharmacies, antique shops, fresh produce stores until we crossed the last street before the Golden Horn. Here, there is a small touristy area with a food court. It reminds me of LA’s Farmers Market with different foods, sweets and trinkets—it is the quintessential Ortaköy experience. This area is famous for its “coffee culture” and street food, particularly along the narrow lanes leading to the water. It is a lively street market, especially on weekends, where you can find handmade jewelry, antiques, and local crafts. The square is dominated by a stunning Ortaköy mosque that sits so close to the water it appears to be floating, with the massive Bosphorus Bridge towering directly behind it. From here you can walk for miles along the Bosphorus for exercise and site seeing.
Here is a link to a self guided Bosphorus walk!
Ancient Istanbul: The Temples and Palaces
The heart of Istanbul’s history is Sultanahmet, where the city’s most iconic structures have stood for centuries. These are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, my favorite.
The Blue Mosque
I hadn’t been inside a mosque before. The main rules seem to be no shoes, cover your head and modest clothing (no skin). When we walked in the domed space I noticed just how massive this room is. I snapped a photo of myself in my makeshift headscarf and sent it to my daughter back home. An hour later she sent one back — her head wrapped in a scarf, grinning. Some places reach people even from a distance.
Topkapı Palace
This was my unexpected favorite. Away from the crowds of Sultanahmet, wandering through these courtyards and gorgeous architecture, and Harem rooms where ancient customs took place was a glimpse into royal serfdom life. Peaceful with gorgeous gardens it is a must see, a glimpse of how the Ottoman royals actually lived.
The Grand Bazaar
Everyone tells you to go. This place is the definition of overwhelming. I am not a big shopper or haggler and so did not have the patience to peruse over 4,000 shops crammed into 61 covered streets, it’s equal parts fascinating and suffocating.
Hagia Sophia
I was able to explore the outside of this famous mosque on my Jump on Jump Off bus. Many people are relaxing around the grounds of the mosque which has gorgeous fountains.
The Basilica Cistern
Timing is everything — when I visited it was mid-restoration, so I missed the full experience. The recent renovation apparently transformed it into a subterranean, cathedral-like, eerie spot.
Arasta Bazaar & the Great Palace Mosaic Museum
Steps from the Blue Mosque, this is the antidote to the Grand Bazaar. One calm, curated street of high-quality ceramics, textiles, and Iznik tiles without the chaos and aggressive bargaining.
Modern Istanbul: The City’s New Heartbeat
Istanbul is a modern city with ancient roots. There are hip shopping areas, world-class restaurants, rooftop bars, and even a Soho House in a 19th-century palazzo complete with a pool and an extraordinary view. The modern heartbeat of the city has moved toward the waterfront and the Asian side.
Galataport & Istanbul Modern
Since my first visit, the Karaköy coastline has been transformed. Galataport is a sleek pedestrian promenade where cruise ships dock alongside world-class restaurants. Istanbul Modern, Turkey’s premier contemporary art museum, reopened in a stunning Renzo Piano-designed building. The rooftop view of the Old City across the water is arguably the best in Istanbul.
Kadıköy & Moda (Asian Side)
Skip the hop-on-hop-off bus. Take the public ferry from Eminönü to Kadıköy — the 20-minute ride is a highlight in itself. This is where locals actually hang out: bohemian, filled with record stores, third-wave coffee shops, and incredible street art. Walk the Moda promenade at sunset. It’s peaceful, leafy, and a world away from the tourist center. And don’t miss Ciya Sofrası, frequently cited as one of the best restaurants in the world for authentic Anatolian food.
Bebek to Arnavutköy: A Different Bosphorus
Instead of a generic Bosphorus cruise, have a driver drop you in Arnavutköy and walk north toward Bebek. This stretch is lined with ornate wooden Ottoman mansions and upscale seafood spots. Stop for a coffee in Bebek and watch the mega-yachts. It feels more like the French Riviera than the streets of Sultanahmet.
Istanbul is bougie
When I am a solo traveler I will explore, eat well and repeat. In Istanbul since I was with locals I was totally spoiled. I discovered the modern monied part of the city life.
Amazing food with tables of friends in local restaurants.
We lounged by the pool and dined in the Soho House 19th-century palazzo perched above the city. We lunched at an outdoor park attached to a private club, attended pro basketball games and had dinner with several of the players. We were chauffeured. We cruised the Bosphorus. We went to my friends rooftop birthday party overlooking the city, dancing the night away.
But the thing that stayed with me most was experiencing the social bonds and customs of friends getting together all the time. At cafés, on street corners, at parties. Effortlessly social, genuinely bonded. In America I feel the absence of that — real community, showing up for each other just because. In Istanbul it seemed to happen naturally, like breathing. I found myself a little envious, and a lot inspired.
Next up: We leave the city behind and head to the Turquoise Coast — anchoring in hidden coves, exploring ancient ruins, and discovering why this stretch of Mediterranean coastline might be Turkey’s best kept secret.
Cappadocia: Land of the Fairy Chimneys
The final stop was the surreal landscape of Cappadocia. The valleys of Göreme, with their unique rock formations and ancient cave dwellings, truly feel like another planet.
We immersed ourselves in the region’s culture:
Underground Cities: Navigating the labyrinthine, ancient cave systems.
Rock Churches: Discovering ancient drawings preserved inside chapels carved directly into the soft stone.
Local Culture: Climbing to high viewpoints, visiting carpet weavers, and enjoying the amazing regional food.
Alas, our group was unable to experience the iconic hot air balloon flight due to a last-minute booking issue (“no room!”). But even without the view from above, Cappadocia remains an essential and jaw-dropping part of the Turkish experience.
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Next up: We leave the city behind and head to the Turquoise Coast — anchoring in hidden coves, exploring ancient ruins, and discovering why this stretch of Mediterranean coastline might be Turkey’s best kept secret.
The Turquoise Coast – boat life and Ancient Secrets
After the hustle of Istanbul, the Aegean coast provided a luxurious contrast.For our Blue Cruise, we began the journey from the ultra-luxurious D-Maris Bay on the Datça Peninsula. This allowed us to sail a vast stretch of the coast, visiting sites like the partially submerged ruins of the Sunken City of Kekova and the dramatic Butterfly Valley.
The cruising experience was defined by its stunning, bespoke stops:
Luxury & Culture: We visited the ultra-chic Adaia Göcek, a secluded, sea-access-only stop where we moored at the gorgeous dock. It features an incredible restaurant and a dedicated library housed in sleek glass cubes—a truly unique moment of seaside tranquility. Nearby, we explored the fascinating submerged ruins of Cleopatra’s Bath right in the water.
Exclusive Dining: We spent time at the sophisticated Kumlubükü Yacht Club and experienced authentic, local maritime life by mooring at the jetty of Esinti Restaurant in Söğüt, near Bozburun, for a dinner of impossibly fresh seafood.
Hidden Bays: We anchored in beautiful, secluded swimming spots like Ambar Burnu (a pristine cape on the Datça Peninsula).
The cruise offered authentic coastal moments, such as docking directly at small, traditional spots. In the quiet village of Söğüt, near Bozburun, we moored directly at the jetty of Esinti Restaurant. This family-run spot served an unforgettable dinner of fresh seafood and unique meze, providing a perfect example of the tranquil, local maritime life away from the big marinas.
Göcek: The cutest little town you've never heard of
After the hustle of Istanbul, the Aegean coast provided a luxurious contrast. Our base was the peaceful yachting hub of Göcek (a serene alternative to the bustle of Bodrum). We enjoyed the pristine swimming and high-end dining at the D-Resort Göcek, with its spectacular private beach.
Adrenaline and Rivers
Near Fethiye, I channeled my inner adrenaline junkie by paragliding off the majestic Baba Dağ (Father Mountain), soaring high over the world-famous Ölüdeniz (Blue Lagoon).
A unique excursion was to Dalyan. We took small boats inland, cruising the reedy waterways until we passed beneath the awe-inspiring Lycian Rock Tombs of Kaunos, carved high into the cliff faces millennia ago.
The Ghost Town
While in the Fethiye area, we visited Kayaköy, the heartbreakingly beautiful abandoned Greek “Ghost Village.” Hundreds of crumbling stone houses stand silent on the hillside—a haunting and powerful reminder of the 1923 population exchange.
Part III: Time Travel – Ruins, Riches, and Rustic Charm
My trip continued through history, contrasting the monumental with the humble.
The famous “empty city” I visited was the spectacular Roman ruin of Ephesus, home to the magnificent Library of Celsus and the immense Great Theater.
Near Ephesus, we drove to Şirince, a quaint village that feels like stepping into a rustic past. Here, we enjoyed the local tradition of tea brewed in a huge, rustic cauldron and sampled their famous fruit wines—a beautiful moment of traditional Turkish life.
Further inland, the landscape changed dramatically at Pamukkale (Cotton Castle). This dazzling, UNESCO-protected site features brilliant white mineral terraces. Right above it sits the ancient city of Hierapolis, where you can explore one of the best-preserved Roman Amphitheaters in Turkey.
