Like most, my epic journey through Turkiye began in Istanbul. Then I went from the bazaars of Istanbul to the balloons of Cappadocia and beyond. I saw ruins, oceans, mountains, resorts, drank fresh pomegranate juice, turkish tea and coffee and ate the turkish food, i hiked and swam, drove through dusty rodes and drifted above sparkling seas. Epic is the correct adjective for this fascinating country. Keep reading to discover the hidden gems of Turkiye.
I traveled to Istanbul first and local friends guided me through this historic place. Know that Istanbul is just the tip of the iceberg and Turkey has many more diverse and interesting areas to explore. You will find ancient history and ruins, rich culture and food and stunning landscapes and oceans. It seems that UNESCO world heritage sites are around every corner. The more I visit, the more I am fascinated. After Istanbul I ventured inland to Cappadocia, a land of underground ancient cities, fairy chimneys and balloon rides, the Turkish Riviera, with it’s Roman ruins, crystal clear waters, small villages and mountains, and UNESCO sites like Pamukkale, Hierapolis and Ephesus It seems that UNESCO world heritage sites are around every corner. Here is a brief outline of Turkey and the places where the magic happened for me.
Istanbul: First things first...take a walk!
On my first visit to Turkey we had a very late flight from Marrakesh and landed in the old IST very large and busy International airport. As we waited for our bags I noticed the throngs of people from all over the world wearing traditional clothing, speaking different languages. Africans, Asians, Europeans, Middle Easterners – a true melting pot. Indeed, Istanbul is city of 15 million people with crowded and narrow streets winding through hills and neighborhoods. It is one of the largest cities in Europe and has both a European and Asian side divided by the Bospherus Strait.
Do not be intimidated. Take a walk! A great way to explore any place is to walk. A waterfront walk along the Bosphorus gives you views of the Asian and European sides of Istanbul along with parks and palaces, fisherman and locals. My morning walk began in the Ortaköy neighborhood, we walked passed bakeries, pharmacies, antique shops, fresh produce stores until we crossed the last street before the Golden Horn. Here, there is a small touristy area with a food court. It reminds me of LA’s Farmers Market with different foods, sweets and trinkets—it is the quintessential Ortaköy experience. This area is famous for its “coffee culture” and street food, particularly along the narrow lanes leading to the water. It is a lively street market, especially on weekends, where you can find handmade jewelry, antiques, and local crafts. The square is dominated by a stunning Ortaköy mosque that sits so close to the water it appears to be floating, with the massive Bosphorus Bridge towering directly behind it. From here you can walk for miles along the Bosphorus for exercise and site seeing.
Here is a link to a self guided Bosphorus walk!
Ancient Istanbul: The Temples and Palaces
The Blue Mosque
I hadn’t been inside a mosque before. The main rules seem to be no shoes, cover your head and modest clothing (no skin). When we walked in the domed space I noticed just how massive this room is. I snapped a photo of myself in my makeshift headscarf and sent it to my daughter back home. An hour later she sent one back — her head wrapped in a scarf, grinning. Some places reach people even from a distance.
Topkapı Palace
This was my unexpected favorite. Away from the crowds of Sultanahmet, wandering through these courtyards and gorgeous architecture, and Harem rooms where ancient customs took place was a glimpse into royal serfdom life. Peaceful with gorgeous gardens it is a must see, a glimpse of how the Ottoman royals actually lived.
The Grand Bazaar
Everyone tells you to go. This place is the definition of overwhelming. I am not a big shopper or haggler and so did not have the patience to peruse over 4,000 shops crammed into 61 covered streets, it’s equal parts fascinating and suffocating.
The heart of Istanbul’s history is Sultanahmet, where the city’s most iconic structures have stood for centuries. These are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, my favorite.
Hagia Sophia
I was able to explore the outside of this famous mosque on my Jump on Jump Off bus. Many people are relaxing around the grounds of the mosque which has gorgeous fountains.
The Basilica Cistern
Timing is everything — when I visited it was mid-restoration, so I missed the full experience. The recent renovation apparently transformed it into a subterranean, cathedral-like, eerie spot.
Arasta Bazaar & the Great Palace Mosaic Museum
Steps from the Blue Mosque, this is the antidote to the Grand Bazaar. One calm, curated street of high-quality ceramics, textiles, and Iznik tiles without the chaos and aggressive bargaining.
Crazy Taxi Scam
My friend and I were heading to a hamam from Topkapı Palace. We found a taxi, negotiated a price, jumped in, and paid. We were excited to be on our way. Then something strange happened: the taxi pulled over on a quiet road, the driver jumped out, and another man got in and started to drive. My friend and I exchanged a look: a combo of wtf? and panic. The driver finally pulled up to our destination and demanded payment, again. We understood the scam immediately and after initially trying to explain we quickly realized we had to jump ‘ship’ per se and jumped out of the taxi leaving that stress behind. Shit happens…
We literally walked from the taxi right through the doors of Cağaloğlu Hamam and were immediately transported into a peaceful, centuries-old tradition. Constructed in 1741, with high arched ceiling, sounds of water and peaceful muted lighting. Time to get scrubbed, soaked and washed and come out feeling relaxed and invigorated. The taxi scam barely a memory…
Modern Istanbul: The City’s New Heartbeat
Istanbul is a modern city with ancient roots. There are hip shopping areas, world-class restaurants, rooftop bars, and even a Soho House in a 19th-century palazzo complete with a pool and an extraordinary view. The modern heartbeat of the city has moved toward the waterfront and the Asian side.
Galataport & Istanbul Modern
Since my first visit, the Karaköy coastline has been transformed. Galataport is a sleek pedestrian promenade where cruise ships dock alongside restaurants and shops. Istanbul Modern, Turkey’s contemporary art museum, reopened in a stunning Renzo Piano-designed building. The rooftop view of the Old City across the water is arguably the best in Istanbul.
Kadıköy & Moda (Asian Side)
Skip the hop-on-hop-off bus. Take the public ferry from Eminönü to Kadıköy — the 20-minute ride is a highlight in itself. This is where locals actually hang out: bohemian, boutiques, record stores, third-wave coffee shops, and incredible street art. Walk the Moda promenade at sunset. It’s peaceful, leafy, and a world away from the tourist center. And don’t miss Ciya Sofrası, frequently cited as one of the best restaurants in the world for authentic Anatolian food.
Bebek to Arnavutköy: A Different Bosphorus
Instead of a generic Bosphorus cruise, have a driver drop you in Arnavutköy and walk north toward Bebek. This stretch is lined with ornate wooden Ottoman mansions and upscale seafood spots. Stop for a coffee in Bebek and watch the mega-yachts. It feels more like the French Riviera than the streets of Sultanahmet.
Istanbul is bougie
As a solo traveler I explore, eat out and repeat often not hitting the hotspots. In Istanbul since I was with locals I was totally spoiled. I discovered the modern and monied part of city life in Istanbul. Amazing food with tables of friends in local restaurants throughout the city was a daily occurance. We lounged by the pool and dined in the Soho House, its 19th-century palazzo perched above the city. We lunched at an outdoor park attached to a private club, attended pro basketball games and had dinner with several of the players. We were chauffeured. We cruised the Bosphorus. We went to my friends rooftop birthday party overlooking the city, dancing the night away.
All of this is amazing and I am so thankful for the fun we had. What has stayed with me most was experiencing the social bonds, connections and customs of friends getting together all the time. At cafés, on street corners, at parties. Effortlessly social, genuinely bonded. In America I feel the absence of that — real community, showing up for each other just because. In Istanbul it seemed to happen naturally, like breathing. I found myself a little envious, and a lot inspired.
Next up: We leave the city behind and head south to the Turquoise Coast of Turkiye: aka the Turkish Riviera — anchoring in hidden coves, exploring ancient ruins, and discovering why this stretch of the Mediterranean coastline might be Turkey’s best kept secret.
Next up: We leave the city behind and head south to the Turquoise Coast of Turkiye: aka the Turkish Riviera — anchoring in hidden coves, exploring ancient ruins, and discovering why this stretch of the Mediterranean coastline might be Turkey’s best kept secret.
The Turquoise Coast – boat life and Ancient Secrets
After the hustle of Istanbul, the Aegean coast provided a luxurious contrast.For our Blue Cruise, we began the journey from the ultra-luxurious D-Maris Bay on the Datça Peninsula. This allowed us to sail a vast stretch of the coast, visiting sites like the partially submerged ruins of the Sunken City of Kekova and the dramatic Butterfly Valley.
The cruising experience was defined by its stunning, bespoke stops:
Luxury & Culture: We visited the ultra-chic Adaia Göcek, a secluded, sea-access-only stop where we moored at the gorgeous dock. It features an incredible restaurant and a dedicated library housed in sleek glass cubes—a truly unique moment of seaside tranquility. Nearby, we explored the fascinating submerged ruins of Cleopatra’s Bath right in the water.
Exclusive Dining: We spent time at the sophisticated Kumlubükü Yacht Club and experienced authentic, local maritime life by mooring at the jetty of Esinti Restaurant in Söğüt, near Bozburun, for a dinner of impossibly fresh seafood.
Hidden Bays: We anchored in beautiful, secluded swimming spots like Ambar Burnu (a pristine cape on the Datça Peninsula).
The cruise offered authentic coastal moments, such as docking directly at small, traditional spots. In the quiet village of Söğüt, near Bozburun, we moored directly at the jetty of Esinti Restaurant. This family-run spot served an unforgettable dinner of fresh seafood and unique meze, providing a perfect example of the tranquil, local maritime life away from the big marinas.
Next up: We leave the city adventure in Istanbul behind and head to the Central Anatolya region for a place so unreal you have to experience it yourself: Cappadocia: the land of the fairy chimneys!
Wait, What?
Cappadocia: Land of the Fairy Chimneys
My next must visit stop was the surreal landscape of Cappadocia, including Göreme National Park, a UNESCO site. This desert area has unique rock formations made of ash and lava with archaic cave dwellings, underground age-old cities that once housed up to 20,000 people, and chapels carved into the ash and lava domes, revealing drawings and frescos from the 1700’s.
As usual, going to a place that I have never been, I often do not know what to expect. The locals are friendly, the town and sites easy to navigate, the food amazing. This spot is an adventurers paradise. Cappadocia let’s go! There are some places in the world that are simply eye candy, they are unusually stunning and unique. Cappadocia is like that – it is an entire area that is made up of volcanic domes and caves. It feels old and stuck in time. It also feels like an exhibit at a museum or world’s fair. There were several areas to explore and I did just that.
I arrived at night and checked into my funky cave hotel. This one had low ceilings and the floors had wall to wall turkish carpets laid out. After checking in and dropping off my bags, I set off for food, walking alone in the dark navigating dirt roads and the uneven levels of cave dwellings built into the mountain. Walking alone, I felt completely safe. The full moon was lovely and also the village glows with small lights illuminating the clay walls and pathways. I discovered that the bazaar was open as well as individual shops for handmade shoes, leather goods, carpets etc. I made it to the upper part of the mountain and to the restaurant that promised traditional home cooked Turkish food, think clay pots filled with meat and vegies (testi kabob), fresh meze, saksuka, made from a rich tomato-based vegetable ragu, most commonly using eggplants, zucchini, onion, and peppers cooked in olive oil. Delicious food, fresh healthy ingredients and homey atmosphere in a cave. Alone but not lonely people! I wandered to my cave hotel around midnight with a smile from the most beautiful evening exploring destinations unknown.
Interesting fact: this area is an early center of Christianity.
Uchisar Castle
Goreme - Open air museum
cavusin
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Pigeon Valley
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Next up: We leave the city behind and head to the Turquoise Coast — anchoring in hidden coves, exploring ancient ruins, and discovering why this stretch of Mediterranean coastline might be Turkey’s best kept secret.
Göcek: The cutest little town you've never heard of
After the hustle of Istanbul, the Aegean coast provided a luxurious contrast. Our base was the peaceful yachting hub of Göcek (a serene alternative to the bustle of Bodrum). We enjoyed the pristine swimming and high-end dining at the D-Resort Göcek, with its spectacular private beach.
Adrenaline and Rivers
Near Fethiye, I channeled my inner adrenaline junkie by paragliding off the majestic Baba Dağ (Father Mountain), soaring high over the world-famous Ölüdeniz (Blue Lagoon).
A unique excursion was to Dalyan. We took small boats inland, cruising the reedy waterways until we passed beneath the awe-inspiring Lycian Rock Tombs of Kaunos, carved high into the cliff faces millennia ago.
The Ghost Town
While in the Fethiye area, we visited Kayaköy, the heartbreakingly beautiful abandoned Greek “Ghost Village.” Hundreds of crumbling stone houses stand silent on the hillside—a haunting and powerful reminder of the 1923 population exchange.
Part III: Time Travel – Ruins, Riches, and Rustic Charm
My trip continued through history, contrasting the monumental with the humble.
The famous “empty city” I visited was the spectacular Roman ruin of Ephesus, home to the magnificent Library of Celsus and the immense Great Theater.
Near Ephesus, we drove to Şirince, a quaint village that feels like stepping into a rustic past. Here, we enjoyed the local tradition of tea brewed in a huge, rustic cauldron and sampled their famous fruit wines—a beautiful moment of traditional Turkish life.
Further inland, the landscape changed dramatically at Pamukkale (Cotton Castle). This dazzling, UNESCO-protected site features brilliant white mineral terraces. Right above it sits the ancient city of Hierapolis, where you can explore one of the best-preserved Roman Amphitheaters in Turkey.
ephesus, turkiye
Another ancient site, another UNESCO world heritage site.
