Plains, peaks and parks: exploring the wild west
Driving up to Glacier National Park and then making my way to Yellowstone National Park and Grand Teton National Park is a bucket list solo road trip! Visiting three National Parks will be eye opening for sure but I am curious about what the drive through Wyoming and Montana will be like. As you can tell on the map I will be driving in a horseshoe route up the eastern side of Wyoming and then back down on the western side where all the National Parks are. I will be on the road for two weeks. The drive from Colorado to Glacier National Park is about a 17 hour drive. My strategy is simple: take my time, explore the open roads and any sites I pass along the way, soak up the desolate landscapes and empty towns, visit friends and ultimately explore Glacier, Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons on the way back and spill the tea for you!! Here is a photo rich unveiling of two states that arguably we can call part of The Wild West: Wyoming and Montana!!
Places you've never heard of...Split Rock, Wyoming
After about six hours of driving on an almost deserted highway on the way to Wyoming I noticed a sign that said “Split Rock” and a small parking lot. This happens to be an area of historic significance and natural beauty. The few people that were there left and then it was me, myself and I exploring the mountain vistas and rock formations. There were pools of water that collected in the panholes or weathering pits (shallow, bowl-shaped depressions formed on flat or sloping rock surfaces, often containing water, which accelerates the weathering process). that have formed over thousands of years. I love a desert and this is definitely deserty. I could picture the caravans of horse and buggy or native americans riding through this landscape.
split rock, history
Split Rock was one of the most vital navigational beacons in American history. There is a distinct V-shaped notch in its summit. For 19th-century emigrants on the Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails, Split Rock was visible for a full day before they reached it and two days after they passed. It acted as a “gunsight,” aiming travelers directly toward South Pass, the only easy way across the Continental Divide.
At the base of the mountain, there was a Relay Station, a Pony Express, where riders would push their horses at a gallop toward that notch in the skyline, knowing that the station—and a fresh horse—waited just below it.
Geologically, you were driving over what is essentially a massive natural ramp. The Sweetwater River valley here is one of the few places where the Rockies “break,” allowing wagons to climb the Continental Divide without a steep, jagged ascent.
split rock, native history
- The site, located south of the Sweetwater River, indicates long-term use by indigenous populations during the Early Plains Archaic period (5500 B.C. to 3000 B.C.)
- The Split Rock Prehistoric Site was added to the National Register of Historic Places on May 4, 1987.
- The surrounding area was utilized by various Plains Indian tribes, including the Shoshone, Arapaho, Cheyenne, and Sioux.
- While highly noted as a guide for emigrants toward South Pass, the landmark’s prominent visibility made it a likely, though less documented, observation point for local tribes watching trails in the valley
As I wandered around, alone at Split Rock, I could imagine the history of this area and the settlers and natives who thrived. It is a perfect stop to stretch, explore, climb, have a snack and relax before you continue on the road trip. A welcome first stop on my Wild West Solo adventure.
Native History in the west
Indigenous peoples have lived in Montana and Wyoming since the last Ice Age! That is approximately 12,000 years ago. Oral history of the Blackfeet plus DNA evidence has them occupying Northern Montana for 18,000 years. The Gold Rush of the mid 19th century which brought hundreds of thousands of settlers to trample through the Indeginous peoples territories was the beginning of conflict, fighting, wars and massacres.
Native American life in Wyoming and Montana spans over 12,000 years featuring diverse, nomadic cultures. These Indigenous people were skilled hunters, following migratory game and developed sophisticated trade networks long before European contact.
Currently major hubs for Native life are at The Wind Rivers Indian Reservation and Yellowstone National Park.
Plains Indian tribes include Arapaho, Arikara, Bannock, Blackfeet, Cheyenne, Crow, Gros Ventre, Kiowa, Nez Perce, Sheep Eater, Sioux, Shoshone and Ute. Currently major hubs for Native life are at The Wind Rivers Indian Reservation and Yellowstone National Park
Good to know: The springs of Thermopolis originally belonged to the Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho tribes. In 1896, Chief Washakie and Chief Sharp Nose negotiated a treaty to sell the land to the U.S. government on one condition: a portion of the water must always remain free to the public. To this day, the State Bath House at Hot Springs State Park honors that treaty with free soaking.
Here are a few important and/or sacred sites for local tribes in Montana and Wyoming:
☀︎Bighorn Medicine Wheel (WY): An ancient stone shrine located at 9,000+ feet in the Bighorn Mountains. It features 28 spokes and remains an active spiritual site for many tribes.
☼Devils Tower (Bear Lodge) (WY): Known by many names like Na Kovehe, this site is central to the origin stories of the Kiowa, Lakota, and Cheyenne.
☾Little Bighorn Battlefield (MT): The site of the 1876 battle where Sioux, Cheyenne, and Arapaho warriors famously defeated the U.S. 7th Cavalry.
♒︎Dinwoody Petroglyphs (WY): Ancient rock art in central Wyoming attributed to the Shoshone, depicting spiritual entities encountered during vision quests.
Next Up: Thermopolis, Wyoming
I discovered that the highways heading through Wyoming and Montana are very quiet and seemingly endless. Driving through Wyoming and Montana many of the small towns I passed had the look of towns that have faced economic uncertainty with a depleted population, businesses that have been shuttered, and little job prospects. Some of the towns seemed like ghost towns or modern ruins. It has been a Bust and Boom cycle economically. The first place that I did see locals and tourists was in Thermopolis, Wyoming, a place forgotten in time that you need to spend a chill day or two exploring. See below for the tea…
Have you visited Thermopolis?
From soaking in the mineral-rich waters to exploring dinosaur fossils, Thermopolis offers a unique blend of relaxation and adventure and Western Culture. Don’t miss out on these top 8 things to do and see during your visit, and be sure to take in the beauty and history that this charming town has to offer!
Please share your favorite road trip experiences and unexpected finds in the comments, and let us know what other sites you would recommend!
24 hours in Thermopolis, Wyoming
1. Hot Springs State Park: first things first – grab your suit and jump into the hotsprings, watch the sunset, take a walk
- Overview: Home to the world’s largest mineral hot springs, this park is a must-visit. The park’s geothermal waters flow at a stunning 135°F (57°C). Check out the iconic mineral formations shaped like bee hives/teepees that have been formed over thousands of years from minerals and limestone.
- Activities: Enjoy the free soaking pools at the Hot Springs Bath House, explore the walking trails, and check out the colorful mineral deposits and travertine that create a breathtaking landscape.
- History: The hot springs were used by Native Americans for centuries before becoming a popular destination for settlers in the late 1800s.
2. Check into Hot springs hotel and safari club for dinner and sleep
- Overview: Includes a mineral hot springs soaking tub, restaurant/lounge, and free Wi-Fi.
- Highlights: features a “Safari Club” restaurant and lounge decorated with hundreds of big game taxidermy animals.
- Good to Know: Casual local spot with kitchy vibes. Previous owner/wild game hunter has since passed and the family was looking for a new home for the collection. Let me know if it is still there.
3. Hike to the Summit of Roundtop Mountain: wake up early and take a hike to the top, enjoy the sunrise
- Overview: Enjoy a scenic hike that leads you to the top of Lookout Mountain, offering stunning panoramic views of the Bighorn River and the surrounding area.
- Trail Info: The hike is moderate in difficulty, making it suitable for most hikers. Don’t forget your camera!
- Flora and Fauna: Keep an eye out for local wildlife, including deer bear! (i saw bear scat) and various bird species along the trail.
4. Dining at Black Bear Cafe: head to this diner for a real western breakfast, mingle with locals
- Overview: After a day of exploring, treat yourself to a meal at the Black Bear Cafe, known for its homestyle cooking and welcoming atmosphere.
- Menu Highlights: Enjoy hearty breakfasts, delicious burgers, and homemade desserts. Their cinnamon rolls are a local favorite!
- Ambiance: The cafe captures the spirit of the West, making it a perfect stop after a day of adventure.
5. The Wyoming Dinosaur Center
- Overview: This fascinating museum showcases one of the largest collections of dinosaur fossils in the country, including full-skeleton displays and interactive exhibits.
- Highlights: Participate in a dig or a fossil preparation workshop. It’s an educational experience for all ages!
- Trivia: The center has been featured in various documentaries and is a hub for paleontological research.
6. Hot springs County Museum & Cultural Center
- Overview: Here you will learn about the pioneers, outlaws, ranchers, farmers and Native Americans that influenced this area of Wyoming.
- Highlights: Collections of arrowheads, re creations of pioneer bedrooms, a train car and rooms set up right out of the wild west with guns, old bank safes and actual stage coaches.
- Trivia: The hole in the wall bar that Butch Cassidy and his gang of outlaws drank at is here.
7. Fountain of Youth RV Park: one more soak in an off-the-beaten track local
- Overview: Camp spots and lodging available
- Highlights: Largest natural mineral hot pool in the USA
- Good to Know: Open from 7 am to 9:30 pm, $10 fee
8. Legend Rock Petroglyph Site: on you way out of town
- Overview: Located 29 miles northwest of Thermopolis, it has over 300 individual petroglyphs in 92 panels mainly in the Dinwoody tradition
- Highlights: There is a one-third mile loop trail with 15 numbered petroglyph stops along a cliff of Cretaceous Frontier Sandstone
- Good to Know: Access from October through April requires a key that can be picked up in Thermopolis at the State Bathhous
Additional Points of Interest
- Geothermal Information: Thermopolis sits on top of a geothermal hotspot, making it a fascinating place for those interested in geology. The hot springs are a result of water heated by the earth’s crust, rich in minerals that are believed to have therapeutic properties.
- Historic Landmarks: Check out the historic buildings in downtown Thermopolis, including the Hot Springs County Courthouse and local art galleries that showcase regional talent.
- TeePee Pools and Spa: Another opportunity for soaking located within Hot Springs State Park, offers indoor and outdoor hot springs and sauna
Road trip views: Thermopolios, Wyoming
Next Up...
- Livingstone, Montana
- Bed and Breakie
- Glacier National Park
The drive continues and I am heading to Livingston, Montana. I have a friend there and so I explored the old town and surrounding areas. There are a few surprises in and around Livingstone. Read more to find out what they are.
Livingston, Montana
Welcome to Livingston, Montana
Livingston, Montana is a small town with big country all around. Founded in 1882 as a Northern Pacific Railroad hub, Livingston retains its railroad-era charm in original brick storefronts, historic hotels, and a lively Main Street. Artists, anglers, and adventurers converge here: the town’s culture blends western heritage, a surprising arts scene, and a strong outdoor-living ethic.
History
Railroad birthplace and gateway for early Yellowstone tourism; rich in preserved Victorian-era architecture and local lore (outlaws, early conservationists, and frontier figures).
Nature
Surrounded by the Absaroka-Beartooth wilderness, Yellowstone Park is a short drive away; prime trout fishing on the Yellowstone River; abundant wildlife (elk, bison, eagles) and dramatic mountain scenery.
Culture & Events
A vibrant live-music and gallery scene, seasonal festivals (summer farmers’ markets, film and arts events, rodeos), and community-focused street fairs and historic tours.
Food & Lodging
Cozy cafes, farm-to-table spots, and classic Western saloons; charming boutique hotels and B&Bs often in restored historic buildings.
Not to Miss
-Downtown Livingston & Main Street galleries and boutiques
– Yellowstone Gateway Museum (local history)
– The Livingston Depot Center (railroad history and events)
– Walking or river-side trails along the Yellowstone River
– Day trips: Paradise Valley, Chico Hot Springs, and the northern entrance to Yellowstone National Park
– Scenic drives into the Absaroka-Beartooth ranges and the Beartooth Highway (seasonal)
Insider tips
– Spring and fall are ideal for quieter wildlife viewing and lower crowds; summer brings festivals and full outdoor access.
– Pack layers — mountain weather changes fast. Bring sturdy footwear for trails and a fly rod if you fish.
– Check local listings for weekend concerts, art walks, and farmers’ markets to sample Livingston’s community vibe.
Art along the way
From Thermopolis to Livingston you will pass several quiet towns of the west and then right before Livingston there is the Charles Winger gallery. I am a sucker for art and I had to pull over and take a look. The above photos are some shots of this talented metal artists crafts. I especially like the balls and the cowboy hats.
On main street in Livingston there is the Robert Osborn Gallery with his photographs of both Montana Cowboys and Northern Plains Indians. Stop by and get one of his coffee table books.
Historic Homes
Walking around Livingston there are many old and interesting buildings and homes from the 19th century. Here are a few of the ones I passed. Each historic home has a sign with the history of the house and other details. Montana also has a website that lists historic points of interest in the state with pertinant info.
In and around Livingston there are opportunities for boating, fly fishing, camping and horseback riding. There are also hotsprings to take advantage of Chico Hotsprings and Water of the Gods.
Key highlights:
- Carter’s Bridge: Premier spot for fly fishing and rafting.
- Sage Lodge: Fly fishing lessons and craft cocktails.
- Outdoor Lifestyle: It is a prime location for summer activities and winter sports at spots like Whitefish and Big Sky.
- Chico Hotsprings: Who can resist a soak?
- Wade Lake: Camping area, kayaking, hiking
- Unique Facts: Livingston, Montana, is a thriving hub for film production, notably featuring the Yellowstone Film Ranch near Chico Hot Springs, a 40-acre western studio and backlot.
More stuff
big sky country
Hanging out in and around Livingston gave me a good intro to Montana. Relaxed vibes with a small main street, outdoor activities and points of interest only a short drive away. After leaving Livingston you will drive through several other small towns (Ennis and Townsend) and also hit the state capital: Helena. Bit of Trivia: Helena is the birthplace of Gary Cooper born in 1901.
Montana is renowned as “Big Sky Country,” featuring vast, untouched landscapes, rugged mountains, and abundant wildlife. It is a premier destination for outdoor enthusiasts, offering access to Glacier and Yellowstone National Parks, along with a strong cultural heritage rooted in Native American history, ranching, and its status as the Treasure State.
- Natural Wonders & National Parks: Known for Glacier National Park’s rocky peaks and Yellowstone’s geysers, the state offers extensive hiking, fishing, skiing, and scenic drives.
- “Big Sky” Landscape: With a low population density and large geographic size, it offers immense open spaces, prairies, and badlands.
- Outdoor Lifestyle: It is a prime location for summer activities and winter sports at spots like Whitefish and Big Sky.
- History & Culture: Montana is famous for its Native American heritage, historic ghost towns, and ranching industry.
- Unique Facts: Montana is known for producing Yogo sapphires, having a higher cattle population than human, holding records for extreme temperature shifts, and being the only state to allow double-proxy marriage.
- Paleontology: Known for significant dinosaur discoveries, including the first T. rex remains
As you drive further north away from the mountains, the skies are endless. Next stop: Odd Fellows: the cutest little bed and breakfast that you never heard of and you will never get to experience. This was a great stop over before the last push up to Glacier. It is no longer operating but I enjoyed the rest and relaxation and will look for cute bed and breakfasts on any of my future travels.
Helena and beyond
The drive past Helena towards GNP begins to go through mountains and forest. Make sure you bring lunch with you. If you need to stretch you legs and have a bite do not miss Salmon Lake State Park. When I was there it was quiet and peaceful.
I finally pulled up to the edge of Glacier National Park. I did not know what to expect but after this road trip I realize that this U.S. National Park is a stunner and should be on everyone’s bucket list! Follow the link below to read more on my guide to GNP.
| Factor | Impact on Wyoming/Montana Towns |
| Resource Depletion | Many towns were built for a single purpose: a uranium mine (Jeffrey City), a coal mine, or a timber mill. When the resource ran out or the global price crashed, the “reason for being” disappeared almost overnight. |
| Agricultural Shifts | In the early 20th century, a family could live off 160 acres. Today, industrial farming requires thousands of acres to be profitable. This led to “rural flight,” where younger generations move to cities, leaving main streets empty. |
| The “Interstate” Effect | When I-25 and I-90 were built, they bypassed many historic towns that relied on highway travelers. Without that foot traffic, motels and diners shuttered. |
| The New “Amenities” Economy | You’ll notice a stark contrast: towns near mountains (like Bozeman or Red Lodge) are booming because of tourism and “zoom-town” remote workers, while “high plains” towns without a ski resort or national park nearby continue to fade. |
Butte, Montana
The drive continues after exploring Glacier National Park and I find myself in Butte.
