Bison's and bears: the bosses of yellowstone
My road trip through Montana has been a discovery of small western towns, learning a bit of history of native people, visiting friends and exploring one of the most impressive national parks I have seen in the United States: Glacier National Park. Now I wind my way back down through Montana to head into Yellowstone National Park.
I finally arrived at the Northern entrance to Yellowstone and drove through Gardiner gate. This entrance is near Livingstone Montana and the only entrance to Yellowstone open year round. Yellowstone has 5 gates, 3 in Montana and 2 in Wyoming.
Having visited Yellowstone before, I’d already checked off the classic tourist rites of passage—gazing at Old Faithful and driving the main loops. This time, I was skipping the standard tourist stops and heading straight for where the real drama unfolds: Lamar Valley. When I say real drama I am talking about animal stories!
As a solo road tripper It is advantageous to both stay alert checking out the scene, absorbing the surroundings and to be flexible. So as I entered Lamar Valley there were a dozen or more people staring out into the wide open wilderness, cameras and binoculars in hand, as they do. So being ready for anything I pull over. Turns out, I had walked right into a nature documentary unfolding in real time. Click below to read my Wait, What? post on these unforgettable animal stories both in Yellowstone and in my next stop Grand Teton National Park.
After watching the standoff play out as the light faded, I called it a day and headed for a camp ground. Driving down the road at dusk is peaceful and I pulled into the busy camp ground – there was one parking spot by the primitive camp area so i pulled in and went to sleep completely relaxed and happy. In the morning I awoke and heading back to the wolves to see how this story is progressing. With the morning sun rising above the mountains I saw something i have never seen – a horizontal strip of candy color blocks in the sky – a strange rainbow that was so mesmerizing i had to pull over. Turns out this phenomenon is a circumhorizontal arc—a rare optical phenomenon created when sunlight refracts through ice crystals in high cirrus clouds. A surreal sign for the morning ahead.
The Lamar and Hayden valleys are literally where the buffalo roam. The buffalo or American Bison are large and in charge and meander across the roads, in the middle of the roads, around the roads. To see these huge animals next to your open window and hear their low rumbling growls is having a front row seat to nature’s wonders. More animal stories will play out before your eyes, you just have to pay attention. It turns out that bison are active, they graze yes but the chase, they play, they butt horns, they dominate others. They are fascinating.
Check out this guide from the National Park Website on bison.
In a nutshell bison have lived in Yellowstone since prehistoric times. They are large weighing up to 2000 lbs. They can run up to 35 mph and jump 5 feet in the air. The are strong swimmers (see my video here) and have excellent hearing, vision, and sense of smell. This is why you do not want to get out of your car and take pictures. Just recently a man was chased down and thrown 5 feet in the air. You will not win that race, duh.
Fun Fact: Bison babes are called red dogs due to their bright rust collored fur. You may be able to spot a few in my videos. Adorable!!
When you pull up to a herd pay attention. When I first pulled up to this herd I saw this big guy and a female in the road together and then they walked over to the field, it appeared she had a calf. The male was kind of chasing her around, she did not seem to mind although her tail was raised (a sign of agitation?) Then close to me there was another male who did not like what he was seeing so he walked all the way over to tell that male to get out of dodge. In fact as soon as Romeo noticed the other male heading his way he slowly and nonchalantly turned and tip toed across the street. This photo is the male yearning to be back with the group but not yet daring to confront the leader of the pack.
So far so good. I have seen bears (both black and brown), bison, a large snake, antelope, elk and deer, a few marmots, and squirrels and birds including eagles and hawks. What is amazing is that I am alone but surrounded by nature. I never feel alone in these situations. Sometimes I think I wish my kids could see this but know that I have great stories to tell to them.
Also it is helpful to be flexible and talk to people if you can. There is a lot to learn and see. I have been lucky but also create opportunities for myself.
I learned about 399 and her cubs, about the bear kill in which i did not see the bear but saw bison swimming! I found out about a hidden hotspring and was able to do a little hike and soak alone in the National Park. I made a new friend and was told about a hike in the Grand Tetons that ended up being quite the adventure. I was immersed in the wolf vs bear soap opera. These are the joys of solo travel.
Next stop: Grand Teton National Park
