I'm on a boat! Cruising the Turkish coast
I never imagined that I would have an opportunity to explore Türkiye by boat. So when my friends invited me to join on this “blue voyage” I could not resist. A Turkish blue voyage (Mavi Yolculuk) began with intellectuals and artists exploration of quiet coastal villages and hidden bays and evolved into a popular style of slow, nature-focused coastal tourism. Often a traditional hand crafted wooden sail boat (gulet) is used and the focus would be swimming in hidden bays, eating fresh local food, and walking through ancient coastal ruins. We did not have a gulet but we did swim in hidden bays, eat local fresh delicacies and explored ancient ruins. So buckle up and let’s explore the Turkish coast.
I love being on a boat. I grew up in the water swimming all summer long, was on the swimming and diving team in high school and college, grew up by the beach in Southern California and feel a connection to being in water. My first boating experience was when I had graduated college and my friend and I headed to Europe. We met and became friends with a lovely Italian and he invited us on his sail boat. Next thing I knew we were sailing around the south of France and Italy. Everything was simple – wake up, jump in the water, have a breakfast of fruits, baguette, cheeses, go to shore, explore, lunch on the boat of the most delicious pasta, how? (hint: Italian cooking! ha!) more swimming, chatting, laughing, reading, you get the picture. The ocean breeze in your hair and the sun kissing your skin. That boat life…
When my kids were young I took them to Panama and we rented a sail boat with a captain and a cook. A wonderful time cruising around the San Blas Islands for about a week visiting indigenous locals on their motu’s and buying the catch of the day from fisherman who would appear along side our boat with a wooden canoe filled with lobster and fish. Blog coming one day! Then some friends and I rented a catamaran in the British Virgin Islands. We sailed around for a week – exploring and drinking way too much.
Then I was invited on this trip to the Riviera of Turkey, of course I am in! I’m on a boat! Lol. That Lonely Island song…iykyk.
D'Maris Bay - Resort Life
Day 1
I land at Dalaman Airport and my friend Attila is there to whisk me away. We drive through the tranquil Turkish countryside with rolling hills and trees. We pull over on the side of the road because I have never had fresh squeezed Pomegranate juice and that is a thing in Turkey! Right before me the shop owner pressed the juice from the fruit and it was delicious, that fresh, sweet, tart combo! We then continued on our drive, eventually stopping for Turkish coffee at a restaurant on a stream with trees surrounding us. So far so good and we continued the road trip. I had no idea what was in store for me.
We finally pull up to a grand looking resort, the sign said D-Maris Bay, a Turkish owned luxury property. Our boat is anchored in a gorgeous private protected cove with pine forests and volcanic mountains right in the spot where the Aegean and the Mediterranean seas meet. We hop in a golf cart that brings us to shore where a tender picks us up and brings us to our boat. The boat is amazing but we literally drop our stuff, change into bathing suits and are taken to the beach with DJ, cabanas and Dom! Welcome to me…
From the moment we pulled into this resort I felt like I was in a fairy tale. Beauty, quality, and tranquility settled over my mind and body. A smile emerged and accompanied me on the entire experience. The tender dropped us on a small peninsula with a bar and beach chairs. The temperature was perfect and running around in a bathing suit felt just right. The water was a mesmerizing clear blue and so refreshing. It felt so good to take a dip after my flight and drive to the boat. All friends are together now and the music is gently thumping. The surrounding seas, beaches and even the bar is just gorgeous. We are the only guests as it is the end of the season. I could get used to this… After swimming we celebrated with a glass (or two) of champagne. A dip in the sea and a sip of bubbly: does it get more perfect?
This setting is perfect, and I feel completely content. A relaxed feeling you only get when you “leave your troubles behind”. As the afternoon sun begins to go down, we all go on a sunset walk on the beach, then up a mountain path and end up on a grassy knoll overlooking the beautiful Aegean sea, classical music playing, Sauvignon Blanc flowing, and large curious quails rounding out the magic. I need to pinch myself. After watching a gorgeous sun set over the sea it was time for the spa! Of course it was…I enjoyed a sauna, steam and a cool temp bubbly jacuzzi. I still have trouble wrapping my head around all this pampering. I definitely could do this regularly. After all this it was time to head back to the boat and get ready for dinner. This resort has 5 restaurants and we feasted. Steak, cod, hot lava cake bam! After our late night dinner we walked back to shore to wait for a ride to our boat. Finally time for sleep and the smile is still on my face.
Day 2
Good morning! Waking up on a boat on the water is glorious. It is peaceful and quiet and I am relaxed with thoughts of ‘real life’ fading. The sun is also just waking up so it is coolish with a subdued brightness. I walked to the back of the boat and surveyed the surroundings: sail boat to the right, volcanic mountain behind, no one in sight, crystal clear aqua water. Yep I am going in. I slipped into the water which was cool and refreshing. My body is invigorated and my mind energized. When I climbed back onto the boat, the steward Ehran was preparing coffee, yogurt, fruit, soft boiled egg. Breakfast on the boat sitting in the shade of the deck listening to the water lapping onto the hull. A perfect morning.
Today we were going to hang out at the resort and then leave for our Blue Voyage in the late afternoon. Time to explore more of this incredible place. According the the website, D-Maris Bay, on the Datça Peninsula is rich with undulating hills, lush pine forests, olive groves, secluded bays and secret coves. Set in the midst of an unblemished nature reserve ringed by beaches, D Maris Bay is a theatre of natural beauty. Vivid blooms, turquoise waters and dramatic, volcanic mountains come together at the intersection of the Aegean and Mediterranean seas.
My plan today is to explore and enjoy the resort so after breakfast I retraced the route up to the sunset lookout and then found my way to the gym for a light workout. I then discovered the breathtaking infinity pool, overlooking the entire bay. Swimming and photos are in order. I am not sure if I have seen a more stunning setting for a pool. I feel like a kid exploring and running around the gorgeous grounds and luxurious gym. We are her in mid October right before they close for the season so we have this place to ourselves. We did not see the rooms because we stayed on the boat but the beaches, outdoor restaurants, ocean side bar, indoor gym, sauna and jacuzzi, mid day cocktail lookout with those curious fowl, staff and facilities were 💯.
After my swim, my friends and I walked to a private beach to relax and have a photo session. It is the perfect setting with an ocean cove and lounge bed hanging over the sea. My one friend is a bit of an IG expert and gave me tips on how to pose, lighting etc. This is not my element as I prefer to be behind the camera but after a zillion photos there are a few good ones. Now I see that thoughtful photos are much better then the random selfies I usually take. Trust me! When we were finished and the others satisfied that they got their shot, we returned to the boat for a healthy lunch of fresh fish and salad before motoring away from paradise. Our blue voyage is officially beginning. I am relaxed, happy and pampered from this experience. Smile still in place. No rush to leave this paradise…
D-Maris Bay is truly a special bucket-list destination. Whether you want to drop anchor in the bay or wake up to these cliffside views every morning, it is worth adding to your travel mood board.
Leaving D-Maris Bay
We slowly motor past the resort that gets smaller as we head further out into the Aegean sea. I have no idea where we are going but just cruising on a boat, motor humming and the breeze caressing my skin is relaxing. I do not need much more. The air is a perfect temperature as I sit on the deck staring at all that is around me. We are surrounded by distant mountains some dotted with ancient crumbling structures.
Bozburun
We begin heading into a bay, many wooden boats are moored and the surrounding mountains are dotted with trees. This is our first stop and we are in the small peaceful coastal village called Bozburun. This is an off the beaten path location famous for building gulets, the traditional wooden sail boats.
We pull up to the dock and I am excited to get off the boat and stretch my legs. We walk around the town and meet my friends sister who is waiting. Town is quaint and quiet with locals going about their business and children playing in the town square.
After an afternoon of meandering the streets of Bozburun, we head back to the boat. As the sun dipped low we motored through the blue med until we pulled into the quiet village of Söğüt for an unforgettable evening at Esinti Restaurant. Moored right at the jetty, this family-run gem captures the soul of maritime life, far removed from the bustle of typical marinas. The chef’s mastery was on full display with a spread of impossibly fresh seafood and unique meze, turning our dinner into a sophisticated, serene highlight of our journey along the coast.
Amos Bay
Day 3
Kaunos Archeological Park
Day 4
As usual we woke up and then started motoring to places unknown. Our next spot is another of Turkey’s ancient ruins.
The boat trip itself is a scenic journey through the Dalyan River, with views of the Lycian rock tombs and lush riverbanks.
One of the most popular activities on the Dalyan River is taking a boat tour. Visitors can hire local boats, known as “piyades,” to explore the river. These boat tours offer a leisurely way to enjoy the stunning scenery along the riverbanks. There are many birds, a turtle nesting area, Caunos Ancient site, mud baths and a cute town along the river to eat and shop.
On a later trip to Turkey (coming soon-ish) I discovered that Dalyan is a popular destination that you can actually drive to. I came later by car and that was also a lovely way to visit. Shopping and food. Need I say more?
Dalyan River and Lycian Rock Tombs
Along the cliffs of the Dalyan River, you’ll find ancient Lycian rock-cut tombs. These impressive tombs, dating back to the 4th century BC, are carved into the rock faces and provide a glimpse into the region’s rich history. The most famous of these is the King’s Tombs, which are illuminated at night for a dramatic view.
These rock-cut tombs are some of the most famous ancient structures in Dalyan. They are carved directly into the cliffs that line the Dalyan River and are often referred to as the “King’s Tombs” due to their grandeur. The tombs are believed to date back to the 4th century BC and were created by the ancient Lycians, who were known for their elaborate tomb architecture.
The King’s Tombs consist of impressive, temple-like facades with ornate reliefs. Some of the tombs are simple, while others are more elaborate, featuring columns, pediments, and friezes. They were built to honor important individuals and rulers of the Lycian city of Caunos.
Caunos is the ancient city located near the Dalyan River, and it was inhabited by various civilizations throughout history, including the Lycians, Greeks, and Romans. Some key features are:
Caunos boasts an ancient amphitheater with a seating capacity for around 5,000 people. The theater is carved into the hillside and offers panoramic views of the surrounding area.
The acropolis of Caunos sits on a hill overlooking the city. Visitors can explore the ruins of temples and fortifications, including the Temple of Apollo.
The city features well-preserved Roman baths, which give insight into the bathing practices of the time.
In addition to the Lycian Tombs along the river, Caunos also has its own set of rock-cut tombs, showcasing different architectural styles and burial traditions.
Caunos has an extensive necropolis (burial ground) with numerous graves and rock-cut chamber tombs. These provide a fascinating glimpse into ancient burial practices.
Caunos was strategically located along the river, and it once had a harbor that connected it to the Mediterranean Sea. The remnants of the ancient harbor can still be seen.
The Dalyan River flows into the Mediterranean Sea, and at its mouth, you’ll find Iztuzu Beach. This beach is a nesting site for loggerhead sea turtles. Efforts are made to protect the turtles and their nests, making it an ecologically significant area.
We did not get to see the turtles. We used Candir Tourism to take us through Dalyan and provide all the helpful info, historical facts and local customs.
Hiring a boat to cruise down the Dalyan River is an great way to see the ancient Lycian tombs up close and bring you to Kaunos.
There are many tours and options for you to create your own day trip to Dalyan by river boat or walking and visit the mud baths, Turtle Beach, enjoy traditional Turkish food and hike to Kaunos and see the Tombs.
Last Stop: Adaia Göcek
Day 5
After motoring through the Mediterranean, passing mountains and boats and breathing the fresh sea air, I realize this is our longest time between spots. This is the kind of relaxation that you never experience in your day to day.
When the sun was setting, we slowly motor up to a secluded, sea-access-only spot where we docked. It was barely light enough for me to walk around and see the restaurant and bar, and a glass cube that enclosed the library. Sweet dreams for me…
“I hope you realize that every day is a fresh start for you. That every sunrise is a new chapter in your life waiting to be written.”
― Confessions of a Wallflower
“To travel is to live.”
– Hans Christian Andersen
The only way to reach Adaia is from the sea, it is in a hidden cove on the Ancient Lycian Way, and tucked into the surrounding mountains. It is a sort of retreat, or a private club perhaps. You can come here by boat and find a restaurant, hiking paths, a library, private beaches, yacht trips and areas for weddings, meetings and parties. It is serene.
In the morning I woke up before sunrise and by the time I got off the boat to explore the sun was peeking over the distant mountains and the glow and reflection of the clouds off the water was surreal. It was quiet, no people, just the sound of my steps softly crunching on the dirt paths. Even the lone rooster I came upon walking on the trail was not making any noise. This would be an amazing place to finish a novel or take a break from work (life?).
My friend wanted to go on a hike before we set off, this is our final stop on this incredible journey. There is a dirt path that meanders around the shoreline, so we start hiking.
We are hiking to the ancient ruins of Cleopatra also known as Hamam Bay. Local lore claims that the Roman general Mark Antony built these thermal baths as a wedding gift for Cleopatra. The bay was chosen because of a volcanic crater that feeds warm, mineral-rich thermal springs into the water. It also is quite secluded and surrounded by a pine forest so theres that. Crazy to think that I swam in a spot that Mark Antony built for Cleopatra. They probably were naked, lucky them.
If you find yourself in Turkey on a boat or you want to experience boat life and need a quiet off grid place to relax Adaia is that place. As I was looking up this place the reviews are horrible, mostly for the food (which I did not try) The area is lovely and my experience here was relaxing, stress free in a secret hideaway. For better reviews there is also D Resort Gocek close by Click to browse this resort and more in the area.
Next up: We leave the turquoise water behind and head to a place so unreal you have to experience it yourself: Cappadocia: the land of the fairy chimneys!
