What’s the secret ingredient for a truly unforgettable trip? It’s those moments that make you stop, blink, and think, “Did that just happen?!” Whether it is an invitation for an unbelievable local experience, a chance encounter with wildlife, or being in a landscape so surreal it feels like a dream, my most cherished travel memories are the ones that took me completely by surprise and touched my heart. Prepare for a dose of wanderlust and a sprinkle of disbelief – these are my once-in-a-lifetime “wait, what?!” adventures.
One and done: kilimanjaro
Hiking Kili is no joke and you have to train to be physically prepared. What no one tells you is that hiking the summit is also a mental game played in the dark. Let’s get into it…
We were sent to bed early in the hopes that sleep would occur before being awaken around midnight for the moment we had worked for. This is our summit night and sleep did not occur. I tossed and turned inside my tent for hours anticipating the trek and stressing that I could not sleep. Our goal is to reach Uhuru Peak, 5895 meters, but we would have to trek up the most difficult part first, an endless steep series of switchbacks approximately 4000 feet of elevation gain and 5 plus miles to Gillman’s Point. I am half asleep and definitely dazed as we begin the steep ascent over soft sand and volcanic scree. Even though it was a full moon and quite bright we were urged to turn on our headlamps. The freezing temps and sub zero winds were whipping which made my fleece helmet cover blow annoyingly over my eyes and any attempt to adjust it made me realize that gloves are not the move as my fingers stung from the cold. All I could do was stare at the back of the boots of the hiker ahead of me step after step. A slow-motion procession of hikers and headlamps snaking up the steep switch backs. The air is thin and cold as I try to relax my heavy breath. When will this nightmare end?
The ‘Wait, What?’ moment hit just as the sun began to crack over the horizon and I had taken my last few steps to finally leave the steep sandy dark trail behind. The flood of emotions and realization that I did it overcame me and I abruptly let out a cry of relief, disbelief, exhaustion and elation that I had made it. I looked behind and the sun was beginning to rise over Africa. We still had to hike to get to Uhuru Peak but I was full of confidence knowing that the final push would be easily achievable after what I just accomplished!
Our driver Ronnie had proved skilled and informative during our safari in the Mara. Now we find ourselves in the back of the Rover driving out of the National Park. We are heading into the neighboring Masai Village. We are greeted with a dozen Maasai warriors draped in their traditional colorful wraps and adorned with jewelry. Visiting the Maasai Warriors whoa! I only read about these tribes in Nat Geo when I was young. The Maasai perform for the tourists coming through the village but on this day it was only my friend and I. We watched in amazement as they performed and jumped and listened to the interesting and coordinated humming and chanting.
After the performance it was time to venture into their village and meet the children. They gathered round and were most happy to see themselves in our cameras. The warriors also showed us how they make fire which involves a fire board (soft, dry wood), a fire stick (hard, straight wood), and tinder (dried grass, leaves, or bark). Making fire is a team effort with several men trading off the spinning until the main Maasai gently blew the ember until the smoke turned into fire! The women of the tribe quickly laid out their jewelry and crafts on hand made tables. I did feel awkward that we were only two people! More tourists to purchase their wares would be best.
After we were done exploring the village, we took a walk with the two Maasai to the local school. We walked through a rough mud road and passed more children playing, doing errands and helping out a goat that just gave birth, until we got to the little town with the school. This school needs supplies urgently. Supplies, food and medical care is hard to come by. I thought I could send a care package from the U.S. with school and art supplies. They said that they would never recieve a package through the mail.
After walking and talking for hours, the end of our time with the Maasai chiefs was here. Suddenly the ‘fire chief’ expressed that he would like my long sleeve grey outdoor shirt with a half zipper. He would trade with me and touched the Maasai traditional choker that he had around his neck!
Wait, What? These chokers are vibrant, handcrafted beaded neckpieces often symbolizing social status, marital status, and age. They are unisex and are worn during rituals or as daily adornment. Yes please! Let’s make a deal. I felt very honored to receive something so special. My friend also made a trade as i looked over and the other Maasai proudly had on her white cap.
Baalbek: are the gods calling my name?
So much has changed since I went to Lebanon. The economy collapsed, there was the explosion and destruction that followed, and air strikes. Of course currently they are being bombed, again. I was there before this turmoil and discovered that Lebanon is a beautiful country with friendly residents and ancient history. There is much to explore in Lebanon: from the modern city of Beirut, museums, food, architecture, culture, the beach to it’s ancient history.
Today we are driving through the Beqaa Valley, a dusty seemingly deserted road. I spot signs that say ‘Hezbollah’. “Not to worry” our driver insisted. I truly did not know what to expect as we pulled into a dusty parking lot. We jumped out of the car and looked in amazement…
Wait, What? We are viewing one of the preeminent and most preserved ancient sites of the world: Baalbek. Large intact Temples, intricate and clear carvings, huge stone blocks and columns, grand entrances, stairs, alters, water features and statues. It’s like stepping into a time capsule, where the grandeur of ancient civilizations unfolds before your eyes. Check out the views of Baalbek here.
Baalbek, a major UNESCO World Heritage site with a history spanning over 11,000 years, features well preserved and monumental Roman architecture and massive megalithic stones. It has witnessed the rise and fall of various empires, including the Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans, each leaving its mark on the city’s architecture and culture. The Roman-era temples are particularly impressive, showcasing the empire’s architectural prowess at its peak.
Walking among the ruins, with only a handful of tourists, one can’t help but feel a sense of awe at the sheer magnitude of the structures and the history they represent. Here daydreaming is possible…Do not miss the museum underneath that is home to delicate and important artifacts that have somehow survived over ten thousand years. I tried to imagine how a civilization so advanced lived in this special place. I was transported to the past and my imagination was sparked. This special place is unforgettable.
Remote Jungle Hut Nightmares
I feel a warm head and body lurch against me. My daughter is out, mouth open, hair in her face that is flushed. It has been a grueling, bumpy, sweaty and long bus ride. Getting to Asia from the U.S. is no joke with some destinations 29 or more hours away. Such is Indonesia…After several very long flights my daughter and I are still hours away from our destination. We are traveling in Indonesia to a very ‘off the beaten path’ locale. First stop: the remote jungles of Sumatra. Travel has been complicated here. It is a new frontier for me and trying to arrange activities, accommodations, food, transportation is a challenge. Add to this is my travel compadre, my 16 year old daughter. I want her to have an amazing adventure but cannot make it too difficult, too boring etc. After landing in Medan, there is no turning back.
Many travelers chase the “authentic” experience until they actually find it. After 29 hours of transit, my 16-year-old daughter and I stepped off the bus into a dirt parking lot in Bukit Lawang a remote village in Sumatra. Our host and his partner were waiting there with two small motorbikes to bring us to our jungle hut. Wait, What?? We did not even have the time or the energy to object. Our carry ons barely fit in front of our drivers and we each climbed on the back of the bike – destination who knows? We rode down roads crowded with hundreds of other bikers, past rice fields before turning off-road and passing remote villages, small farms, a bridge over a river, through jungle and rutted dirt paths, finally parking next to a shallow stream. We then have to wade across said stream to the jungle hut. Wait, What? Our jungle hut in Sumatra redefined the term “off the beaten path.”
We would have to arrange rides and be driven via motorbike out of the jungle for touring, activities and food. Our first night in the hut we discovered that the generator turns off at a certain time and we would be without electricity. Meaning is would be pitch black. No street lights, city lights or star lights could help us. Wait, What? The walls of the shack were more of a suggestion than a barrier. As night fell, the vast jungle seemed to engulf the tiny hut. The noise was deafening: a combination of wind and every type of noisy bug and animal you could imagine. It was warm and there were gaps in the walls where the wooden planks sheilded us from the elements. My daughter and I thoroughtly checked the mosquito netting before crawling into bed. We needed to make sure we were safely under the only barrier between us and the millions of creepy crawlies we were sure were waiting to suck our blood!!
The final “Wait, What?” moment came at 2:00 AM when a loud screeching horn like sound pierced the night and attacked our senses. We sat up quickly straining our eyes to see anything in the pitch black of our tiny room. It is a monkey we realized panicked and it’s in our room we thought!!! Then Joelle somehow found her phone and shined the light at the ceiling. There was not a monkey in our room! We realized that it must have been on the roof. Dazed, confused and relieved we started uncontrollably laughing after the realization that the attack of the zombie howler monkey was only a nightmare. After all had settled down and we went back to bed, I pointed the light on my iphone around the room and looked over at my daughter—a teenager who usually requires high-speed Wi-Fi and a climate-controlled room—sleeping soundly while a spider the size of a dinner plate scouted the rafters above us. It was a brutal, sleepless lesson in resilience: sometimes the most “miserable” nights are the ones that prove you can handle anything the world throws at you.
Dancing with mantas
I am hanging onto my sun hat on the edge of a small boat motoring through rough seas off the coast of Isabella in the Galapagos Islands. Eight of us were on the Tinteros tour and we were meant to pull onto the shore. The waves were too rough so we had to turn around. This was disappointing but as we were motoring away the boat captain notices the tips of what look like shark fins coming out of the water. We motor closer…mantas! There seemed to be many and they were swarming and swimming around us. Apparently the mantas were chasing a female and trying to mate with her.
After ten minutes of observing the tour leader says ‘let’s get in’. Wait, what? I had been waiting for those words and jumped in with my mask, snorkel and Gopro. The mantas were so close, they would swim right under and around and dive below us, their huge wing span propelling them through the water. Being in the ocean and watching these mantas, feeling the current from their wings and hearing the echo of the high pitched sounds of their communication is electrifying!
My first safari
It was a short drive from the city as we pull up to the impressive arched gates of the park and buy our tickets in the office. The entry tickets are beautifully designed with images of lions, giraffes, elephants and zebras on the front. Our guide finds us and we walk over to the safari vehicle and climb in. The safari truck! So cool, this is happening, my first safari. I am very excited to see what lies beyond the gates and I do not know what to expect.
Entering Nairobi National Park feels like going back in time. Not long ago we left the modern and imposing skyscrapers of Nairobi, the largest city in Africa, and now we are driving on bumpy dirt roads that seem to have been here for eternity in an open vehicle looking at natural landscapes, open plains, animals and birds. On one side of the Land Rover, a giraffe appears high above the trees; on the other, the glass and metal towers of Nairobi pierce the horizon. It is a surreal, high-contrast landscape where the animal kingdom and modern metropolis are neighbors.
Maybe it is because I just saw Black Panther or maybe because it is my first safari but heading to Nairobi National Park from the big city felt unreal: my Jurassic park moment. During our drive through the park we came to a flooded road that we were crossing. I could not believe we actually were attempting to cross as the road was about six feet above the river. This is not the Universal Studios Jurassic Park River Adventure! What kind of deja vous is this?
In the distance we see a large heard of buffalo and we slowly pull along side. The heard of curious and ominous looking buffalo are definitely staring at us, sizing us up perhaps? They were rhythmically swaying and snorting, seemingly coming closer while maintaining their gaze. The guide explained that these kinda cute looking creatures are large and in charge and are one of the most dangerous animals on the plains. They are aggressive, unpredictable, vengeful and strong, weighing over 2000 lbs. They will trample you in a NY minute. They did look fierce. My adrenaline was pumping as I sat with my body exposed to the open air. Wait, what?
Animal encounters are my kind of adventure travel. Learning about our natural world, feeling alive, exploring the unknown, being in nature and seeing animals in their natural environment is adventure that i will always seek out and never tire of. Most people think you have to travel for days to experience a safari, at Nairobi National Park you just have to drive past the skyscrapers.
We are alone walking down a dirt path into the unknown and it is eerily silent except for our voices. That is when we hear the loud and echoing sound of the clip clop of a horses hooves getting closer, trotting across the centuries worn Roman paving stones, the sound bouncing off of the 600 foot sandstone walls. The lone horse emerged in front of the Obelisk Tomb then ran by. We wondered what had happened to the rider when we heard the gritty echos of another horse approaching, this one with it’s rider. What is this ancient place?
Petra is one of the Seven Wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Little did we know, Petra was about to give us a story for the ages, an experience of a lifetime, a bit of drama, much excitement, new and unexpected friendships and exotic places full of ancient history. Wait, what?
The afternoon’s descent from the oppressive heat found us traversing the Siq, a natural gorge that narrowed with each step, the echoing of horse hooves and distant talking heightening the sense of entering a sacred space. At the end of the long road, the Treasury revealed itself, a monument carved into the cliff face, a testament to the Nabataean civilization’s artistry and engineering. The sight was both breathtaking and humbling. I snapped a photo of the moment that we caught a glimpse of the Treasury, the awe and wonderment of the moment forever captured.
The presence of the exotic and frankly hot Bedouins, think ‘Jack Sparrow’, with their beautiful caramel skin and shiny long black curls wrapped with traditional head scarfs called keffiyeh or hatta and kohl outlining their eyes, confidently attending to their camels and donkeys, added another layer to our experience. They are the inheritors of this ancient land, their lives intertwined with Petra’s history for centuries.
My friend Chrissie, her ankle protesting the walk, opted for a camel’s perspective, and I soon found myself astride a rather reluctant vocal young camel, guided by two Bedouin men, Rakim and Lost (obviously aliases, hmm). We set off, each of us on a camel and the two locals sharing a rather cute donkey. Our tour of Petra’s vast expanse, glowing under the softening light of the setting sun, was just breathtaking. A private tour after hours in the lost city of Petra…Wait, what?
After hours of laughing, exploring and camel riding, Lost spoke of his grandmother, born in a cave within Petra, she still lived there, a rare exception to the community’s forced relocation to a nearby city. This was not a mere tourist encounter; it was an invitation to witness a living connection to the past. Hell yes!! is what I was thinking. We were just invited to dinner with Lost, his family and Rakim. Lost and I jumped on the donkey. The donkey seemed tiny compared to the camel but he was nimble and maneuvered along the rocky and dusty desert trails, passing long abandoned caves carved into the surrounding sandstone formations. The journey seemed long and I was sitting on the back of a donkey with a Bedouin that I just met on a spontaneous and unfamiliar journey, a ride into the never ending desert, further and further away from the tourist sites, following paths carved into the rock and dirt by generations on hooves and feet. Finally, I see a large sandstone structure ahead with a door and a large patio. We made it and also wait, what?!
Grandmother’s cave seemed like a palace, a profound dwelling, quite tall and rectangular shaped, the sandstones gorgeous striped pattern encompassed the entirety. There was an opening but there was not a door. I could not see inside the dark space. Grandmother and several others (two children, two adults) were sitting on a rocky plateau below the patio with a platter of rice and goat in a milky liquid. They were eating with their hands and spitting the bones out. Grandmother looked at us suspiciously. She did not speak English. I tried to be inconspicuous while I snapped photos on my phone.
I was offered food. Lost had eagerly already started to eat and visit with his family. Chrissie was sitting as well. I sat down and picked up a small bit of goat. The strong smell of the gamey meat made my hand refuse to get more. G-ma was not convinced and was visibly wondering why we were there. She would skeptically glance over at me. Nevertheless the others were friendly and curious and made us feel welcome. One young male with wind blown curly hair was smiling wide, his bright eyes direct, happy to see foreign visitors. The young female spoke English and was sweet and curious. It was a moment of profound human connection, a reminder that travel’s true riches lie in these unexpected encounters and that we are all the same regardless of religion, economic status or the color of our skin.
To be included in such an intimate experience, to witness a way of life that has persisted through time, was both deeply humbling and inspiring. It was a reminder that history is not just carved into stone; it lives in the hearts and hands of those who call these places home. As we departed Petra under the cloak of night, I carried with me a sense of gratitude and a renewed appreciation for the enduring power of human connection, a lesson etched as deeply as the caves and monuments of Petra. This was a glimpse into the lives of people who are far removed from the habits and gadgets of modern life. Hanging on the what is and has been real and enduring. I realized that this is a once in a lifetime experience that I will never forget. As I looked over the photos of this mind blowing trip I see the photo that commemorates the moment Petra becomes real, the first glimpse of the Treasury and discover that Lost is there in the photo memorialized in that moment. Wait, what?
They said "don't bother" and i did and it was soulful: jozi
Has this ever happened to you? You are planning a trip and friends and family offer up “don’t go there!’, or ‘it is not safe there’, ‘ not much to see or do there”.
I have heard these warnings many times and I usually end up going and ultimately I am happy that I did. Johannesburg is one of those places that I heard ‘don’t bother’. So I went all in to understand and see the place for myself.
I found a hostel in the Soweto township called Lebo’s, that promised a unique and authentic experience. Staying at Lebo’s we were submersed in African culture. We rode bikes on a tour of different parts of the townships, learning about them, tasting local food and learning about the history of apartheid. We visited Mandelas house, the Hector Pieterson Museum, and they prepared an authentic African soul food dinner. All in all it was a lovely immersion.
Next stop: Maboneng. Maboneng, is a Sesotho (south african language) word meaning “place of light”, a fitting name for a district that is a centre of creative energy for Johannesburg’s urban artists, locals and tourists. This magical urban neighborhood is in Johannesburg and is full of creative energy with a mix of bars, restaurants, coffee shops, clothing boutiques, art galleries, retail and studio space. I stayed in the Curiocity Backpackers in this hipster area and it was centrally located near restaurants, bars, art galleries, music, and graffiti. Also met new friends to share this incredible place with. We explored the Apartheid museum and a busy and vibrant Saturday market called Neighbourgoods with many people, music, shopping and food. You do not want to miss Jozi. Check out my post of graffiti around the world for graffiti highlights in Jozi. Thank you Joberg the experience blew my mind!
Skinny dipping in Santorini
In Santorini, the crowd is all encompassing, a sea of linen and selfie sticks swirling through the white-washed alleys of Oia. But my hostel roommate and I shared a silent, unstated, rebellious intuition: the real island was down, not up.
We bypassed the souvenir shops and began the steep descent toward the water, winding between sun-bleached homes and the occasional wild cat dozing in the heat. By the time we reached the jagged edge of the Aegean, the noise of the village had evaporated.
The ‘Wait, What?’ moment was when we stepped off the cliffs and realized we had found a slice of paradise, a lonely beach with sea shells and colorful pieces of sea glass, a slight breeze, small waves and an occasional seagull. Even with thousands of tourists walking directly above our heads, we had found a pocket of total privacy. We didn’t even need to speak; we both were about swimming in the blue waters and inviting sea. The sounds of the ocean lapping on the shore and our giggling voices was all we heard. I set my clothes and shoes on a nearby rock and just stepped into the cool, crystal clear sea. Skinny dipping in the shadow of a caldera while the rest of the world stands in line for a photo on the cliffs above. This is a the type of adventure that I am all about. Finding off the beaten path location to enjoy with friends is the ultimate travel luxury. ‘Nuff said!
Mot, Hai, Ba, YO! Exploring Ha Giang with EasyRiders and new friends
Stay tuned…
In Northern Vietnam, the ‘Easy Riders’ don’t just drive; they navigate a vertical world of limestone pinnacles and hairpin turns that seem to defy physics. Strapped to the back of a motorbike, I spent three days winding through the Ha Giang Loop, where the Ma Pi Leng Pass offers a terrifyingly beautiful view of the Nho Que River thousands of feet below.
The ‘Wait, What?’ moment wasn’t the scenery, though—it was the ‘Happy Water.’ Every night, after hours of white-knuckle riding, we’d gather with local families for a chorus of ‘Mot, Hai, Ba, YO!’ (1, 2, 3, Cheers!). Between the shots of potent rice wine and the roar of the engines, the language barrier vanished. It’s a place where the adrenaline of the road is only matched by the warmth of a communal table. To be continued…
Walking with gentle giants
The heat was intense but today way the day for me to visit the Elephant Nature Park in Northern Thailand. A van picked me up we watched videos explaining the plight of elephants when they are taken from nature to work. Elephant Nature Park is the first ethical elephant sanctuary in Asia. It is a rest home of sorts for elephants rescued from street begging, riding and circus shows. On my day tour there was only one other person besides myself and after a short intro we had our first introduction to the elephants that we would be spending the day with.
We were led over to the feeding and watering area and there they were: four large asian elephants standing there in front of us without a fence or barrier. There were two baskets of cut up watermelon, squash and whole cucumbers and it was feeding time so we were put to work. At first we both had to wrap our heads around the fact that we were standing with these giant creatures. Our task: to place a piece of fruit on the heavy trunk swinging, curling and reaching for the treats. The giant elephant would then raise the fruit to its mouth and crunch the fruit exploded and poof gone. Before you knew it we were eagerly bending down to pick up the fruit and gently hand it over to our new friends. These elephants seemed patient and gentle and aware. Their eyes were watching our every move. After the baskets of fruit were depleted the mahout (elephant assistant) squirted water from a hose directly into the end of the elephant’s trunk. The elephants would then put their trunks in their mouths and drink. Fascinating.
It was now time for our adventure (as if this were not enough!). We were spending the day, hiking with the elephants to a watering hole and would have lunch and then get in the water with these pachyderms. Let’s Go!! Elephant nature park expands for 250 acres and we felt like we were in remote territory. We slowly set off down the trail with elephants and mahouts in tow. The elephants walking slowly and calmly behind us, we could now see just how huge these creatures are. They still wanted food so we were feeding them while on the move.
After our walk in the hot sun and heat we came upon a jungle hut sitting in the trees above the stream. The air conditioner was a system of water flowing on the tin roofs. We left the elephants and went inside to have lunch, a delicious vegan meal. After lunch we could go swimming in the river, which we did.
We then walked back down to the elephants who were headed into the water and we joined then. We poured water on their backs and could scrub them. It was amazing to see them enjoy the water. Afterwards we all had a peaceful walk back. It was an amazing day hanging and learning about these gentle creatures.
Feeling spiritual under the Aurora Borealis in Iceland
Coming soon:
I am pretty sure most people have no idea what 399 is, so let me explain. 399 was the most famous grizzly bear in Wyoming. She was not famous for attacking people or becoming a nuisance but rather because she was certifiably an amazing mother to her many offspring. Every year the masses would wait to see her emerge from her winter den with a new group of cubs. When she was 24 years old she emerged with not 1, not 2, not even 3 cubs. She had 4 cute cubs to feed, keep safe and to mentor! She was a smart and shrewd mama and knew that one of the keys to keeping her cubs alive was to be in the vicinity of humans. Not to harass humans but to hang out around the highways and fields where the tourists hang out and the male grizzlies avoid. Check out Grizzly 399’s amazing story and then read my Wait, What? moments.
I am on a road trip from Colorado and I have alreaady hit Glacier National Park (see my guide here) and I am finally pulling into Yellowstone National Park. It is my first time here and although I have heard about the geysers, I soon discovered that it’s all about the wildlife. Curious by nature, I noticed groups of people out of their vehicles in a field or on the side of the road staring off into the distance with binoculars and cameras in hand. What could they be looking at? Of course I had to find out. It turns out animal stories are happening right before our eyes.
The first time I pulled over, I quietly walked amongst the lookie loos staring out into the vast wilderness looking for whatever they were seeing. I noticed some wolves in the distance. Then I asked the person nearest to me “What are you looking at?” “The bear” he said. “Oh, what about the wolves?” I asked. “There are wolves?” he said and grabbed his binoculars. Ha! Ok I see how this works. Here’s the tea: wolves had hunted and taken down a small antelope and then a grizzly shows up and took it from the wolves, the wolves left to get help and when I pulled up the pack of wolves were on the way back to claim their prey. The best soap opera ever. This is the excitement of the wild kingdom. Not for the faint of heart. While talking to one of the lookers with high powered binoculars I learned that on the other side of the park a grizzly took down a 16 point elk that was in the water, quietly trying to mind his own business. The bear had been feasting on the elk for days. I decided to go in search of… in the morning. If there is something interesting to see, I am going to see it.
I started on the drive in the morning and arrived to a spot amongst many parked cars and dozens of heavily armed wildlife photographers. I was told that the bear left in the early morning apparently satiated. There were still hordes of nature photographers waiting along with late comers like me. The photographer that I happened to be standing next to told me what I really should see is this magnificent bear 399 and her four cubs! That sounds great, but how? This is no zoo.
As I was walking back to my car I noticed two bison on the other side of a fresh and clear stream. To my surprise the first one started to cross the stream and the second one slowly followed. Wait, What? I had no idea that bison could swim!!
That night I slept in my car at a camp sight and had dream about this famous bear and her cubs. In the morning I set out for more exploring. I was looking around the highway as I drove and saw an unmarked dirt road and quickly braked so I could make the turn. I slowly drove past a couple of tents and headed away from the road. Up ahead, I could see a very animated woman speaking to a man and a kid. I pulled up and got out of my car to join them.
It turns out she was hanging out at the end of the road about ten minutes before I arrived and 399 and all four cubs started walking towards her. She had to quickly jump in her car and they wandered all around for several minutes while she took photos. Then they wandered off down the hill. She was so excited because she was looking for them, she loves bears and travels every year to scout them out and take photos. She has seen 399 several years in a row and knows about the four cubs and their stats and personalities. OMG! I am now totally excited. I cannot believe that I just missed the most amazing bear encounter that one could have. That’s when I noticed movement behind her and down the hill by a stream. There they are! I caught a glimpse of 399 leading her cubs into the forest. What a crazy chance encounter. Wait! WTAF?